LUO
CULTURE, TRADITION, FOLKWAYS AND BELIEFS
PROGRAM 1: DEPARTING EVERY FRIDAYS
TWICE A MONTH (1ST AND 3RD WEEK OF EVERY MONTH)
MINIMUM OF 04 PAX ON A LAND CRUISER 4WD DURING
RAINY SEASONS AND TOYOTA SAFARI MINI-VAN DURING DRY SEASONS
IN KENYA (NB: BEFORE YOU BOOK, ENQUIRE THE SEASON TO GET THE
EXACT PRICE BASED ON THE TYPE OF A VEHICLE DETERMINED BY THE
SEASON).
TOUR HIGHLIGHTS
9 DAYS NAIROBI / KERICHO / KISUMU /KIT MIKAYI
/ MBITA / RUSINGA / TAKAWIRI ISLAND / MFANGANO ISLAND / MBITA
/ NYAMGONDHO / THIM LICH OHINGA / AWENDO / KILGORIS / MAASAI
MARA / NAIROBI.
DETAILED ITINERARY
Day 1: Nairobi – Kericho
Depart Nairobi early in the morning for a trip through Great
Rift Valley with a stop over at the view point to have a glance
at Mt Longonot and the breathe taking escarpment to reach Kericho
tea hotel which was built in 1950’s by Brooke Bond Tea
Company and has an old World airstrip, pitch your tents, enjoy
your lunch and then go for an escorted walk in the Tea Plantations.
Kericho is a Tea country which has put Kenya to be the world
third largest Tea producer after India and Sri Lanka. There
are beautiful rolling hills carpeted in neat, bright green tea
bushes as far as you can see. The climate here is perfect for
Tea with rain falling almost every afternoon. Kericho was named
after Ole Kericho, a Maasai Chief who was killed in the battle
by the Gusii in the 19th Century. The hotel also has an optional
trout fishing activity at a cost.
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Day 2: Kericho – Kisumu
– Kit Mikayi – Lwanda Kotieno – Mbita
After an early breakfast, depart from Kericho via Kisumu city
to reach Kenya’s most dramatic archaeological sites, a
vast granite rock tower called Kit Mikayi. The rock is situated
in Kisumu district, Maseno division, East – Seme –
location, Kit – Mikayi sub-location, Kangeso village,
Kadol clan. The rock which is about 70 to 80 ft tall is located
30kms Far East of Kisumu city and 1km from of Kisumu Bondo road.
The sign board is on the gate of Kit Mikayi primary school then
you enter through N’gop-Ngeso primary school. The legendary
story behind Kit Mikayi which in Luo means the stone of the
first wife is that: Long time ago, there was an old man by the
name Ngeso who was in great love with the stone. He could wake
up in the morning and walk in to the cave inside the stone and
stay there the whole day which could force his wife to bring
him breakfast and lunch everyday. The old man became passionately
in love with this stone to the extent that if somebody could
ask the wife the whereabouts of the old man, the wife could
answer that he has gone to his first wife (Mikayi) hence the
stone of the first wife (Kit Mikayi). More further explanation
about this unique stone is that according to its feature and
components, the structure represents the Luo cultural polygamous
family which had the first wife’s house (Mikayi) built
further in between on the right hand side was the second wife’s
house (Nyachira) while the third wife’s house (Reru) was
built on the left hand side of the homestead. This rock also
is seen to have a nuclear family whereby the father (Ngeso)
being the middle stone followed by the bulky Mikayi (first wife),
then Nyachira (second wife) followed by Reru (third wife) and
further in front they have the child which is representing Simba
(which is the house for the first born boy in the homestead).
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The site since time immemorial has been a worship
place and is usually being used by the Legion Maria sect and
you can see the remains of lit up candles in several colors
inside the cave. Inside the cave, it is believed that there
is a hole in the middle of the cave which was co-joining Lake
Victoria and one time an Asian dropped in and was found dead
in Lake Victoria and hence the late Dr. Robert Ouko who was
the Member of Parliament for the area by then and also the former
most respected Foreign Affairs Minister in Kenya ordered for
the closure of that dangerous hole. After this, we take Bondo
road and on to the famous Akala Market which is known for its
trade in cattle in the whole of Nyanza. Interact with buyers
and sellers who come as far as Kisii, Kadem, and Karungu, Migori
e.t.c to buy and sell their herds. Drive to Ndori then turn
left on Ndori – Lwanda K’Otieno road, for an onward
ferry transfer to Mbita at 03:00pm and after about 45min you
shall be at Mbita to check in at Lake Victoria Safari village,
pitch your tent, then relax for the day. Picnic lunch enroute,
dinner and overnight at the campsite.
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Day 3: Rusinga Island full
day.
After breakfast, leave the campsite with your picnic lunch and
drive past the course way to enter the famous Rusinga Island.
Rusinga is an austerely pretty Island with high crags dominating
the desolate goat-grazed landscape. A single dirt road is running
around its circumference. Life here is difficult, drought commonplace,
and high winds a frequent torment. The occasional heavy rain
either washes away the soil or sinks into the porous rock, emerging
lower down where it creates swamps. Ecologically, the Island
is in very dire straits: almost all its trees have been cut
down for cooking fuel or been converted into lucrative charcoal.
These conditions make farming highly unpredictable and most
people rely on some fishing to make ends meet. Yet the islanders,
in common with their mainland cousins, remain unfailingly friendly
and cheerful bunches, who are more than happy to make contact
with wayward visitors. Drive towards left from the junction,
stop somewhere and then walk on foot to visit the archeological
site where Dr. Mary and Louis Leakey found the skull of Proconsul
Africanus which is believed to be approximately 18 million years
old and was a man earliest ancestor and so was taken to National
Museum of Kenya in Nairobi where you can view it when time allows
and at an extra cost. It is also believed that this is one of
the first important hominid finds of these two famous archeologists.
Besides Ligongo, a visit to sacred rock Kiangata on Rusinga
Island is an avoidable. The legendary story about this rock
is that, the mother of the sub clan of Wakiangata who are occupying
the area went to fetch firewood around the rock and she disappeared
and so it is believed that she is leaving inside this sacred
rock and whenever you shout, the unique eco sound which comes
out of the rock is believed to be the sound of the mother of
the Wakiangata sub clan and so the common question asked here
is “Kiangata, what have you prepared for us to eat today?”
then there is an echo sound which comes out of the rock. After
this experience, walk back to the car and further move to Tom
Mboya’s mausoleum which lies on family land at Kamasengere
on the north side of the island, about 7km by the dirt road
from Mbita, or roughly 5km directly across the island. The mausoleum
(open most days to visitors) contains various mementoes and
gifts Mboya received during his life. Tom Mboya, civil rights
champion, trade unionist and charismatic young Luo politician
who was gunned down in Nairobi in 1969, sparking off a crisis
that led to over forty deaths in widespread rioting and demonstrations.
The
inscription on the grave reads:
THOMAS JOSEPH MBOYA
August 15th 1930 – July 5th 1969
Go and fight like this man
Who fought for mankind’s cause.
Who died because he fought.
Whose battles are still un won! |
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You don’t have to know anything about the
man to be impressed. In any other surroundings his memorial
might seem relatively modest, but on this barren, windswept
shore, it stands out like a beacon. Mboya’s family live
right next door and are happy to see foreign visitors, who rarely
come here. After the sad painful story and readings about Mboya,
we will drive further past Kaswanga through the Tom Mboya memorial
hospital and Tom Mboya secondary to stop at Wanyama to have
a glance at the legendary rock portraying the bulls which fought
into the lake and turned into two rocks facing each other. The
legend about this rock is that long time ago when young men
went to look after the herds, there was one common place where
they could water their herds and after this, each clan could
identify a bull to fight in between the clans and hence the
two rocks were two bulls from Nyama and Ware clans. After this,
we proceed to Lianda tuwi, the vintage point to have a glance
at the central Nyanza with its Islands and then walk to the
dry stone enclosures which resembles the ones at Nyamgondho’s
site and Thim Lich Ohinga which were portraying the houses which
are believed that were used by the first settlers in this area.
Also get to learn the difficulties the local people face in
terms of farming as they can not use the normal tools like any
other African style because the whole area is dominated by sedimentary
rocks which is believed that there must be hot springs underneath
which might one time erupt. Then drive back to Mbita for dinner
and overnight.
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Day 4: Mbita – Takawiri
– Mfangano – Mbita
After breakfast, with your picnic lunch, enjoy a ride on traditional
boat with horse power engine past the two smallest Islands called
Mbasa Namiyolo to reach the beautiful Island of Takawiri with
very white sands and get to know how they survive and live with
the traditional fishing style. This Islands of Lake Victoria
are settled by Abasuba tribes who are Bantu speakers and believed
to have come from Uganda more than 200yrs ago. Some of them
went first to Tanzania before settling here. The name “Suba”
means “the people who are always wandering”. The
arrival of the Abasuba displaced the Nilotic cattle handling
Luo people who moved further North. We ride further to Mfangano
Island where we have the geometric rock paintings at Mawanga
cave and Kwitone in the Island. It is believed that the rock
art pre-dates the migration of both Nilotes and Bantus and is
thought to be the work of ancestral Twa, a forager-hunter people
who may have been originary related to the pygmies of Eastern
Congo.
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Meanwhile the Abasuba long ago embraced the Art
as part of their own ancient heritage. The paintings are thought
to have been made between 1000 and 4000yrs ago and may have
been used for rain making purposes. It is known for instance
those similar paintings in Eastern Uganda only 200kms North
of Suba district were used for this purpose. Rock engraving
site in the area include “cupule” sites, where cup-shaped
depressions have been ground into the rock surface, as well
as a rock gong. Although cupule’s often resembles a Bao
game, their original use is likely to have been for ritual purposes,
such as initiation. Cupules are found all over the world and
are thought to be amongst the oldest form of rock art probably
predating paintings such as those Mawanga and Kwitone by thousands
of years. Rock gongs are normally free- standing boulders balanced
on the living rock which have a natural resonance, and often
bear a number of cupules. When the boulders are struck with
a stone, they emit a ringing tone like a bitten gong. Rhythmic
striking produces a series of tones that carry great distance.
A number of rock gongs are found in the Lake Victoria basin
and in the Moru Koppies in Tanzania’s Serengeti National
Park as well as in the Mt. Kenya region. Ones we reach the shore
of Mfangano, we will have 5 minutes walk from the boat and then
reach Mawanga. Although they were painted as part of a vanished
mythology, the cave, the paintings and the surrounding area
retain powers in the traditions of the Abasuba. The Wasamo clan,
who live around the cave, are the rain makers of the Abasuba,
and the elders agree that the paintings have been used for rain
making ceremonies, with the red paintings representing the moon
and the white ones representing the sun. On the upland part
of Mfangano Island is the Kwitone rock shelter which we can
reach if time allows, the art here is similar to that of mawanga,
although retaining more of its color and vibrancy. The elders
of the Wagimbe clan explain that if you wanted to come to Kwitone
to talk to the ancestors, you were not allowed to call the site
by its name or tell anyone that you are coming; you were also
supposed to abstain from sex. If you follow the instructions,
then when you arrive at the site, you may be able to see the
paintings of hens, old men and women drinking alcohol. If you
did not follow the instructions, you might see nothing not even
the smallest paintings. The Wagimbe also used the rock to ask
the ancestors and even the time of the clan battles e.g. between
Wagimbe and the Wasaki (approximately 200yrs ago), the Wagimbe
had taken refuge in the cave. The women then dressed up as men
and standing in the mouth of the cave scared the attackers into
thinking that they were double the number of warriors as was
actually the case. Up to now, people still visit the cave to
ask the ancestors and success in their various endeavors. After
getting to learn the wonders of the two rocks, we ride back
to Mbita, picnic lunch enroute, after relaxing you can enjoy
optional hike to Gembe Hills to have a view of the beautiful
isles in Lake Victoria before dinner and overnight at the campsite.
Note: You can donate towards the upkeep of Abasuba community
peace Museum in Mbita to continue with their good work of maintaining
the rock arts.
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Day 5: Mbita – Sindo
– Nyamgondho site – Thim Lich Ohinga
After breakfast and after picking your picnic lunch, drive to
the interior of Suba land passing through Sindo to have a glance
at the most magnificent Ran’gwa hills with very fertile
land for agricultural products. The Gusii communities who have
settled in the hills are purely subsistence farmers alongside
with the locals, Kaksingiri community, then to Magunga, take
the deviation to your left hand side and drive to Nyandiwa and
onto the amazing site of Nyamgondho. The legend here is there
was a poor fisherman from Kamangeta in Tanzania who came to
sojourn in Kachwodho clan in Nyandiwa next to the present Nyandiwa
fishing beach called Julu son of Ombare, grandson of Omae whom
like other fishermen used Migondho kind of fishing to catch
fish. Migondho was made from the fibre of sisal which was spinned
into a rope attached to a hook with crab as the bait to lure
fish to be caught. One day, when Julu son of Ombare went to
fish as usual, as he was pulling the rope, suddenly an ugly
one eyed woman appeared and requested Julu son of Ombare to
take her home and lit fire to make her warm as she was feeling
cold. Julu son of Ombare was a very brave man and as per her
request, she was taken home and apart from the fire, she lived
with Julu son of Ombare and he gave her the name of Adikinyi
Nyamgondho (connoting the time and the type of fishing in dholuo).
Not knowing that this was luck, they started having cattle and
multiplying them day by day. Julu son of Ombare became a very
wealthy person and forgot that he was poor and hence he took
to drinking proudly and abusing the woman every other day until
one time he decided to fight the woman and even said that he
doesn’t want an ugly woman like Nyamgondho as he had already
married another woman. The lady decided to go back to the lake.
Then animals in the compound started following her to the waters.
Even Julu son of Ombare could not stop them. The foot prints
where they stepped on before jumping into the water are still
there and can be seen when there is no much water on the shore.
The cowshed which was built for the cattle using the dry stone
walls which has no mortars just like the ones in Thim Lich Ohinga
and the ones in Lianda Tuwi can also be visited.
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The big tree which people believed was Julu son
of Ombare watching in dismay when his wealth was going into
the lake can still be seen to date. After this amazing story,
we move towards Sori to have a glance at the mythical stone
which disappeared with no trace and further move to Kadem then
take the left turn through Lwanda Magwar shopping centre, then
turn left and pass through the traditional Luo villages and
reach Thim Lich Ohinga the unique architectural stone structure
situated in Nyanza province 181kms South of Kisumu in Migori
district to pitch your tents and get ready for the wonder. The
site lies on a gentle sloppy hill some 46kms North West of Migori
town near Macalder’s mines. Its exact geographical location
on map is at grid reference 019 474 on sheet number 129/4. Thim
Lich Ohinga is believed to be one of the most important archaeological
discoveries in East Africa and only compared to Great Zimbabwe
ruins and the modified Great Wall of China in terms of architectural
achievements. A dry stone enclosure of zigzagging walls some
150m in diameter and 1.0 to 4.2m in height built on lose stones
and blocks without any dressing or mortar. Archaeological record
of material found within the site goes beyond 500yrs ago. Since
the present inhabitants of the area arrived probably some 3
centuries ago, it seems most likely that Bantus who initially
occupied this region prior to the arrival of Luos first built
the stone structures.
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The writings in each and every entry gate have
not yet been known even after sending the same to the Museum
of Kenya adding mystery to the people who first settled in Thim
Lich Ohinga. Abundant rocks on the hilly areas provided them
with building materials to meet their security requirement to
drive away the wild animals and protect them from the warring
tribes around that area. Thim Lich Ohinga literally in dholuo
language means “frightening dense forest or scary jungle”
was occupied after the Bantus by Kabwoch Kochieng clan who drove
away the Bantus then followed by Kanyamkago clan whom also subsequently
were driven away by Kadem who are the present occupants of the
area around Thim Lich. However, the Kanyamwa clan came also
to settle here but most of them decided to move to Lambwe valley
around Kakaeta in Ndhiwa. The small number remained behind around
Thim Lich Ohinga. Further story is that the famous Gor Mahia
who was the youngest son of Ogada who was the grandson of Ogalo
the reknown wizard in Luo Land drove away his elder brothers
by killing their offspring’s because he was a powerful
wizard which he inherited from his grandfather Ogalo although
all of them were wizards. This forced Ochieng his brother to
go back to Kadem and request for shelter from their cousin the
chief of the small clan Kanyamwa in Kadem, because of lack of
land, Ochieng was told to settle and hide from the wrath of
Gor Mahia in Thim Lich Ohinga which he also tried to repair
and modify. Having seen the safety of the place, he invited
his other brother Akuku who also came and settled next to Ochieng,
then came Okech, then subsequently Oluoch and all this people
had their homesteads next to Ochieng’s. This is the last
people known to have occupied this historical place before the
National Museum came in to make it a great monument under its
umbrella. Dinner and overnight at the campsite. Note: In between
you can visit a Natural and cultural Luo traditional village
apart from what is in the compound of Thim Lich Ohinga at a
cost.
Day 6: Thim Lich Ohinga –
Rapogi – Awendo
After breakfast, we leave Thim Lich to Awendo through Rapogi.
Awendo is a Sugarcane town and every activity in life revolves
around sugarcane growing and sugar making. We will have an opportunity
to visit Sony Sugar Company to get to learn how sugar is processed
and to amaze at the big sugar plantations and the process of
cutting down sugar canes and transporting the same to the factory
for crushing. We will then move to Awendo town to check in for
our accommodation in a budget hotel, picnic lunch enroute, dinner
and overnight at the hotel.
Day 7: Awendo – Kilgoris
– Lolgorien – Maasai Mara
After breakfast in the busy town of Awendo, you will drive to
Kilgoris passing through Maize and Sugar plantation, amazing
at the beautiful landscape of Nandi and Kipsigis tribes to enter
the famous Maasai Mara with an enroute game drive to your campsite,
picnic lunch enroute, dinner and overnight.
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Day 8: Maasai Mara Full Day.
Full day will be spent in the vast Maasai Mara in search of
its renowned plain game; Black manned Lion, Leopard, Cheetah,
and migration of Wild Beast and Zebras. The Savannah country
in the Mara with plenty of grass and short trees (shrubs) sustain
the bigger number of herbivorous animals which Maasai Mara boost
of and also act as vintage to enjoy a wonderful view of the
animals. The ride will take you to the famous Mara River where
we have a big school of Hippos and plenty of Crocodiles. This
section also boasts of many species of Bird life. Drive back
with a game drive to your campsite for dinner and overnight.
Picnic lunch will be enjoyed on the game. Note: You can also
enjoy Balloon ride very early in the morning at an extra cost
or a visit to a Maasai village or Nature Walk in between.
Day 9: Maasai Mara - Nairobi.
Have an early game drive after breakfast, enjoy lunch then depart
to Nairobi arriving in the evening to end your wonderful trip.
The price includes:
1. Exclusive use of 4WD or a mini-van with photographic hatched
roof.
2. Use of English speaking driver guide.
3. Accommodation on FB as per the tour dossier.
4. All park entrance fee
5. All game drives.
6. Kericho Guided Tea walks.
7. Boat ride to Takawiri and Mfangano Islands.
8. Guides fee to Stone paintings in Mfangano.
9. Ferry’s fee from Lwanda K’Otieno to Mbita.
10. Car and driver’s entry fee.
11. Cook’s fee.
12. Campsite fee.
13. Driver's allowance
14. Government tax.
The price excludes:
1. Visas
2. Extra activities in Maasai Mara as per what is mentioned
above.
3. Bevarages.
4. Laundry.
5. Mineral water.
6. Return transfers to the Airport (can be done on request).
7. Hotel accommodation in Nairobi (can be done on request).
8. Sleeping bags can be arranged on request.
9. Visits to Luo traditional homes or a guided bush walk through
the villages.
10. Donations to the guides and curators of the mentioned
sites.
11. Tips.
Kenya
Culture, Tradition and Folklore |
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